Sichuan and Hunan cuisines are one half of China’s big four; the others being Yue (Cantonese) and Shandong (Beijing). I would say the better half (!) but then I am biased. After eating both of these cuisines two nights in a row, I find it difficult to decide which is the most special – I mean both are pretty fantastic!
Dry-fried Chicken
Mapo Doufo
Sichuan-style food originates from the West of China in the hills and mountains of Sichuan. The food is quite unique in that it makes use of not only over 20 different cooking techniques (including dry-frying, explode frying etc) but also showcases a flavour sensation known as ‘ma la’ which translated means ‘hot and numbing’. This sensation is created through the use of Sichuan pepper, sometimes called fagara, which is actually a minute husk that is toasted over heat before being ground to a fine powder and sprinkled over many Sichuanese dishes. The flavour is zesty lemon, and the sensation is difficult to describe – I liken it to a cross between Bongela and the gush of your tastebuds when your mouth starts to water…It also makes grand use of the dried Sichuan chilli – both small that are left whole and large that are sliced up into pieces. The idea is not to eat the chillies, they are just there to impart flavour during the cooking process and to make the dish look attractive when presented. Only fools eat them when they reach the table!
Sichuan-style food originates from the West of China in the hills and mountains of Sichuan. The food is quite unique in that it makes use of not only over 20 different cooking techniques (including dry-frying, explode frying etc) but also showcases a flavour sensation known as ‘ma la’ which translated means ‘hot and numbing’. This sensation is created through the use of Sichuan pepper, sometimes called fagara, which is actually a minute husk that is toasted over heat before being ground to a fine powder and sprinkled over many Sichuanese dishes. The flavour is zesty lemon, and the sensation is difficult to describe – I liken it to a cross between Bongela and the gush of your tastebuds when your mouth starts to water…It also makes grand use of the dried Sichuan chilli – both small that are left whole and large that are sliced up into pieces. The idea is not to eat the chillies, they are just there to impart flavour during the cooking process and to make the dish look attractive when presented. Only fools eat them when they reach the table!
Watch the Chinese gingerly pick around them.
Dry-fried Chicken
We ate dry-fried chicken prepared in just this way, mapo doufu (Mother Chen’s Pockmarked Beancurd) cooked in spicy Sichuan chilli oil and yellow bean paste with a touch of minced beef. There was also stewed pork belly served on top of Sichuan preserved vegetables that tasted of cooked and sautéed chard, and steamed asparagus. The first two dishes demonstrated the technique of ‘ma la’ perfectly, whilst the others showed me what other marvellous things Sichuan had to offer.
Belly pork with wheat dumpling breads
In contrast Hunan food shares the similarity of cooking with chillies, but instead of being dried, they are crisp and fresh and used in an entirely different way.
Wood ear Mushrooms with Hunan Dressing
It is the fresh and fragrant combination of chillies, spring onion, garlic and coriander that is at the heart of this cooking – the combination makes fish, meat and vegetables sing. We ate some really special food. We ordered some Wood Ear mushrooms in a dressing of garlic, light soy, rice vinegar, sugar, chilli and coriander and it was delicious. The texture of the mushrooms was crisp and chewy and they were a perfect foil to the softness of the second dish, stir fried egg with chilli and onion.
Stir fried Egg with Onion and Chilli
We also had a beautifully presented dish of firm silken tofu, sliced and served in a similar dressing to the mushrooms, but with spring onion and more chilli. But perhaps the most exciting dish was a fish opened out attractively, garnished with fragrant mince cooked with fresh chillies, coriander, spring onion, garlic and chilli oil. In Hunan circles this is referred to as ‘Squirrel fish’ as it is said to resemble a squirrel (?) but for me the combination of fish and meat, so unusual, is what makes this dish. It was fantastic!
Squirrel Fish
So, which one threw the best punches? Well it’s a toughie. Sichuan has always held a place in heart and I love the unusual ‘ma la’ flavour. However, the lesser known Hunan cuisine, I have to say wins out. The punchiness of the ‘yang’ fresh chillies hit you around the head but are perfectly balanced with the crisp ‘yin’ or cooling note of coriander, which is lacking in Sichuan (or less flavourful as they favour cucumber as the balancing ‘yin’ note). So there it is. Hunan wins – but Sichuan puts up a jolly good fight. Three cheers to the victor….’hip,hip, Hunan’!!!!
So, which one threw the best punches? Well it’s a toughie. Sichuan has always held a place in heart and I love the unusual ‘ma la’ flavour. However, the lesser known Hunan cuisine, I have to say wins out. The punchiness of the ‘yang’ fresh chillies hit you around the head but are perfectly balanced with the crisp ‘yin’ or cooling note of coriander, which is lacking in Sichuan (or less flavourful as they favour cucumber as the balancing ‘yin’ note). So there it is. Hunan wins – but Sichuan puts up a jolly good fight. Three cheers to the victor….’hip,hip, Hunan’!!!!
Hunan-style Tofu (Doufu)
Happy Cooking!
HJ
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